Published April 14, 2025 • Updated January 9, 2026
Reviewed by Julie Miller, BA in Language Arts, Editorial Lead, Dr. Killigan’s
TL;DR: If you have pest control products under the sink right now, do not have a panic purge. You need a fast audit, safe storage habits and a label check that focuses on what actually matters. This guide walks through the most common product types people stash under the sink, the household pest control chemicals you’ll see most often, how to read insecticide labels for safer use and the basics of household insecticide safety for kids, pets and tight indoor spaces.
Note: This post was updated to focus on where these products usually end up.
Under-the-sink cabinets are where good intentions go to retire. Half-used sprays. Mystery bait stations. A fogger you bought during a midnight “I heard something” moment. Then life happens, the cabinet door closes and the products wait in the dark.
This guide is here for one reason: you already have these products. You want to know what they are, what their labels are actually saying and how to store and use them with fewer regrets.
In this guide: Under-the-sink audit • Common pest control products • Household chemicals to know • How to read insecticide labels • Safety for kids & pets • A calmer alternative approach
Start here: a 60-second under-the-sink audit
Before we talk ingredients and labels, do the quick check:
- Toss or quarantine anything leaking, corroded, unlabeled or expired. If it is sticky, swollen, rusty or cracked, it is not “fine.”
- Keep pest control separate from cleaners. Under-sink cleaners plus pesticides equals accidental mixing and accidental exposure.
- Store smart for kids and pets. If kids or pets can access the cabinet, put pest products in a lidded bin and move it up high or into a locked space.
- Keep everything in its original container. No unlabeled baggies. No “I’ll remember what this is.” You will not.
If you are unsure about disposal, your city or county household hazardous waste program is usually the safest route.
The big categories you'll usually find under the sink
This is what most households end up storing, even if they did not mean to. If you have pest control products under the sink right now, these are the usual suspects.
Aerosol bug sprays and “multi-insect” sprays
What they are: Pressurized cans meant for quick knockdown of visible bugs, often aimed at cracks or along baseboards.
Where they are meant to be used: It depends on the label. Many are indoor spot treatments, not “spray the whole room” products.
Label sections to check first:
- Directions for use (so you don't overdo it)
- Ventilation and re-entry notes
- First aid (because accidents happen fast)
This is also where you will often see common household bug spray ingredients like pyrethrins or pyrethroids.
Ant and roach baits: stations, gels, granules
What they are: Slow-acting products that pests carry back to the nest or share within the colony.
Where they are meant to be used: Near activity, placed where kids and pets cannot reach.
Label sections to check first:
- Placement rules (do not put them where you also spray)
- Storage and disposal
- Pet and child warnings
Baits tend to work best when the area stays undisturbed, clean and consistent.
Dusts and powders
What they are: Dry products applied into cracks, voids and low-traffic hiding spots.
Where they are meant to be used: Gaps and protected areas, not open floors.
Label sections to check first:
- Where not to apply (especially near airflow or food zones)
- Avoiding airborne dust
If you want a plant-powered option that stays in cracks and crevices, Dust to Dust Plant-Powered Insect Powder is a Dr. Killigan’s pick for thin, controlled placement where pests travel. It works by desiccation, meaning when the bugs make contact with the dust, it breaks down their waxy outer layer, causing them to die by suffocation. Safe for kids and pets when used as directed.
Foggers and bombs
What they are: Total-release aerosols that fill the airspace.
Where they are meant to be used: Only as the label allows and only when you can fully follow prep, timing, ventilation and re-entry instructions.
Label sections to check first:
- Re-entry and ventilation
- Fire and ignition warnings
- Any notes about small enclosed spaces
Foggers are famous for one thing: making people feel productive. They are less famous for solving the real problem, which is usually cracks, moisture and hiding spots.
Rodent baits and bait stations
What they are: Poison baits meant for rats or mice, sometimes in stations and sometimes in blocks or other formats.
Where they are meant to be used: Only where the label allows, placed in tamper-resistant stations and kept completely out of reach of kids and pets.
Label sections to check first:
- Storage and disposal
- First aid
- Precautionary statements and pet, child warnings
- Directions for use, placement rules and where not to place
Under-sink storage increases the risk of accidental exposure. If you find old rodent products under your sink and you are not sure what they are, treat them as high-risk until you confirm via the label.
Common household pest control chemicals you'll see most often
You do not need to memorize chemistry. You just need to recognize the repeat players that show up on under-the-sink labels:
- Pyrethrins and pyrethroids: Common in sprays. They target insect nervous systems and indoor misuse can irritate skin, eyes or throat and sometimes causes skin sensations like tingling or burning. Ventilate, avoid overapplying and keep kids and pets out until the label says it is safe to return.
- "Inert ingredients": Often not fully listed on consumer packaging even though they can affect irritation, odor and residue. Front-label terms like “home-safe” or “eco-friendly” are not a substitute for the back label, so prioritize ventilation, first aid and storage and disposal over marketing claims.
- Anticoagulant rodenticides: Found in some rodent baits. Treat as high-risk around kids, pets and wildlife. These baits interfere with blood clotting, so accidental exposure can be serious. They also raise a secondary concern: a pet or wild animal can be harmed after eating a poisoned rodent. Store rodent baits locked and in original packaging, never as loose blocks under the sink. If you are not using them, dispose of them through your local household hazardous waste program.
A quick note on transparency
The examples above reflect what you’ll commonly see on under-the-sink labels across the category. At Dr. Killigan’s, we take a different approach: our products are plant-powered, targeted for specific uses and we fully disclose our ingredients so you know exactly what you’re bringing into your home.
No matter the product, the label—not the marketing—is still your best guide.
How to read insecticide labels without a science degree
This is intentionally different from our [complete guide to reading insecticide labels].
Focus on these five label sections, in this order:
- Signal word (Caution, Warning, Danger): Not decoration. It is your first clue about risk level and handling
- Directions for use: This is where misuse happens. More product is rarely better.
- Ventilation and re-entry: If the label says ventilate, ventilate. If it says stay out for X hours, stay out for X hours.
- First aid box: Read it before you need it
- Storage and disposal: This is the part most people skip, then regret later
Health risks to watch for in tight indoor spaces
Under-sink products are often used in the smallest areas of the home. That is where mistakes feel bigger.
- Short-term issues are usually irritation from overspray, poor ventilation or touching residue too soon. Think eyes, skin, throat, coughing, headaches.
- Higher-risk situations include kids or pets accessing the cabinet, using foggers indoors, mixing products or reapplying more often than the label allows.
Household insecticide safety under the sink
Safer storage basics
You already did the 60-second under-the-sink audit above. Now set the cabinet up so it stays safe.
- Keep a "pest-only" bin: One lidded bin for pest products so nothing drifts into cleaners or dish items.
- Separate by type inside the bin: Aerosols upright, baits closed, powders sealed.
- Create a simple "use first" spot: Put the products you actually use at the front so old mystery items do not accumulate again.
Keep pest control separate from cleaners and anything food-adjacent
Under-sink cabinets usually hold dish soap, drain cleaner, disinfectants and laundry supplies. That is exactly why pest products need their own lane.
- Do not store pesticides beside bleach, ammonia or drain cleaners. Accidental mixing happens fastest when products share the same cramped shelf
- Keep pest products away from "food-adjacent" items like sponges, dish towels, reusable bags, pet bowls, pet food scoops and anything that touches hands or mouths.
- Never reuse a cleaner bottle for bug spray, even if you “rinse it.” Residues are persistent and the label directions are tied to the original container.
Child-resistant does not mean child-proof
If a child can reach the cabinet, assume they can open it. Child-resistant packaging buys you time, not safety. Children explore with their hands and mouths, so easy-access storage can become an exposure fast.
- Use a cabinet lock if anything under the sink is hazardous: it’s the simplest upgrade.
- Treat baits like candy risk: Bait stations and blocks are often the most tempting-looking items in the cabinet.
- One rule that works: If it could harm a kid, it does not belong at kid-height.
Pet exposure patterns (paws, grooming, floors)
Pets do not read labels. They walk through residues, lick their paws, rub their faces on baseboards and nap near “treated” areas.
- Floors are a highway: If you spray low surfaces, assume paws will touch it.
- Grooming turns contact into ingestion: A small amount on fur or paws can become a bigger exposure after licking.
- Under-sink risk is access risk: Dogs nose cabinets. Cats slip into open doors. If pets can access the cabinet, store pest products elsewhere or lock it.
When to call Poison Control or seek medical help
- If you are unsure, call Poison Control in the US at 1-800-222-1222. Have the product container nearby so you can read the active ingredient and EPA Reg. No. if present.
- Seek urgent help right away for trouble breathing, seizures, confusion, repeated vomiting or a serious eye exposure.
- With kids or pets, do not wait if ingestion is possible.
When more spray is not the answer
If you keep spraying the same spot, it usually means the “why” is still there: moisture, crumbs, clutter, gaps or a hidden source you have not addressed. In addition, broad spraying can create a cycle where you treat, pests retreat and you never fix the entry point or hiding place.
A calmer alternative approach
If you want a calmer plan that reduces how many pest control products you keep under the sink, switch from “spray first” to “prevent first”. When you do need product support, choose targeted options you can use with less room-wide spraying.
Start with this order:
- Block entry: gaps, sweeps, cracks
- Cut moisture: leaks, damp cabinets, condensation
- Remove shelter: clutter, cardboard piles, undisturbed corners
- Use targeted tools only where they fit
Use product support to reinforce prevention, not replace it.
Light, intentional product support can assist here:
- Dust to Dust Plant-Powered Insect Powder for cracks, crevices and other low-traffic hiding spots. Think “leave it in the gap” rather than “spread it around.” It works when pests pick up the powder in tight gaps, which can dehydrate them. For more precise placement, pair it with The Insect Buster.
- Six Feet Under Plant-Powered Insect Spray for quick contact control when you spot activity. On many household surfaces, a light mist leaves behind residual kill power that keeps working for up to 30 days.
- Six Feet Under: Barricade for an outside-in perimeter habit at entry points, a plant-powered barrier spray that helps protect for up to 90 days when used as directed
For many homes, an outside-in barrier and targeted crack work can mean fewer foggers and fewer room-wide aerosol sprays.
Keep it calm. Keep it specific. Always use as directed.
Explore further
- Learn why foggers often fail: 8 reasons why you shouldn’t use bug bombs
- Considering stronger chemicals? Do I want to use permethrin to kill bugs
- Looking for safer storage swaps: The best alternative to mothballs
- On reducing chemical load: What are affordable non toxic pest control solutions
- Why ingredient transparency matters: Putting customers first: the power of full disclosure
