Ants in the house: what it means and what to do about it

Published November 9, 2020 • Updated January 29, 2026
Reviewed by Julie Miller, BA in Language Arts, Editorial Lead, Dr. Killigan’s

TL;DR: If you’re seeing ants in the house (especially ants in the kitchen), it usually means they’ve found food, water, shelter or an easy entry point. Start by removing attractants, wiping trails, treating active areas and sealing gaps. For long-term control, focus on the colony and the conditions that keep ants coming back—especially moisture issues (common with carpenter ants).

Seeing them in your kitchen? Kitchen ants—especially along baseboards or near sinks—usually means scouts have found something worth reporting back to the colony. 

This guide covers practical, low-risk ways to get rid of ants at home. Since “sugar ants” (often the tiny kitchen invaders) and carpenter ants cause the most trouble in homes, we’ll focus on those two—how to identify them, what attracts ants in the house and the most effective ways to eliminate them.

• Why do I have ants in my house? They're usually following food, water or shelter. 
• Why do I have ants in my kitchen? Kitchens concentrate crumbs, spills and moisture—perfect scouting territory. 
• How do you get rid of ants in the house? Start with cleanup and moisture control, then treat where ants travel and seal entry points.

Jump to: What attracts ants • What types of ants infest your home • Sugar ants • Carpenter ants • Micro FAQ • Explore more

What attracts ants in the house?

Ants are bold. Their colonies may appear at any time of day, welcoming themselves into your home (and life) one day and disappearing the next.

However, they have their particulars—certain conditions that will attract and keep them in your home. If you’re wondering why you have ants in your house, the answer is usually one of these five reasons:

• Water leaks (indoors)
• Unclean conditions
• Pets
• House plants
• Lack of water (outdoors)

Now, let’s explore each in more detail.

1. Water leaks

That steady drip under the sink may be of no concern to you, but it has a strong magnetic pull for ants and many other insects. Why? All living creatures need water. And rest assured, they will find it.

Did you know? Ants have a built-in radar for water. Research shows that large colonies can detect water sources from up to 13 meters away using their ultra-sensitive antennae. That tiny leak under your sink? To them, it’s like a glowing neon sign saying, “Water this way!"

2. Unclean conditions

This can range from a sink full of greasy dishes and a trash can brimming with birthday party leftovers to unwashed sticky countertops or sweaty laundry. Another overlooked culprit? The wandering fingers of a child. Kids touch everything, leaving behind traces of stickiness on walls, furniture and clothes—all of which can attract ants on the march.

Fact: Ants navigate using pheromone trails—essentially their version of GPS. Once one scout finds a tasty mess, it lays down a chemical path, signaling others to follow. Here’s how to remove ant trails.

3. Pets

Pets require extra care when it comes to keeping pests at bay. Their feeding areas can be a major attraction for ants, offering an open buffet of food and a constant water source. Even outdoor feeding stations placed near the home can draw ants closer, increasing the risk of an indoor invasion.

Did you know? Outdoors, fire ants are notorious for invading pet food bowls, sometimes blanketing them in search of protein-rich meals. Their aggressive behavior can turn mealtime into a battle for your pets.

4. House plants

Plants can encourage ant activity by providing either a reliable water source through damp soil or an ideal place to nest in dry soil. In both cases, houseplants can be a potential hotspot for infestations.

Did you know? Some ants farm aphids on houseplants, protecting them in exchange for a steady supply of honeydew—a sugary substance aphids produce. If you spot ants crawling on your plants, you might have more than just an ant problem. Learn how to protect your houseplants from aphids.

5. Lack of water

Even the cleanest, most well-kept home isn’t immune to ants. When dry spells hit, they’ll march indoors, determined to find life’s most essential resource. For most ants, even a tiny drop can mean survival—so don’t be surprised if they show up when things get dry.

What types of ants will infest your home?

Many ants will find your home inviting and stick around. When you get them, it's important to identify which type you have. Some can be aggressive.

Ant type	Size	Color	Nesting preference	Bites/Stings	Noteworthy details
Sugar ants	1/16" - 2/16"	Dark brown to black	Moisture-rich and water-damaged areas	Yes, mild burning	Includes pharaoh ants, carpenter ants, odorous house ants and pavement ants
Carpenter ants	1/4" - 2/4"	Black	Water-damaged or softened wood	Yes, causes burning sensation	Do not bore through solid wood
Black ants	~1/16"	Black	Walls, wood rot	No, but have stingers	Stinger too small to puncture human skin
Fire ants	1/8" - 2/8"	Bright red	Outdoors, close to homes	Yes, painful sting	Most aggressive, stings cause welts, can trigger allergic reactions

Tip: Seeing aggressive red ants outdoors in the South? Read: Red imported fire ants: a growing threat in Florida, Texas and beyond.

Get rid of sugar ants in your home

The most common kitchen invaders are odorous house ants—tiny pests often called "sugar ants" due to their attraction to sweet foods. To get rid of sugar ants in your kitchen, start by removing food sources, disrupting trails and treating entry points.

Tip: A quick way to verify their ID is to squash one or two. If they emit a distinctive, unpleasant odor—described as rotten coconut or petroleum-like—you’re likely dealing with odorous house ants. No smell? You may be dealing with a different house ant. Read Ants are everywhere. Here's what to know and where to turn.

Sugar ants are opportunistic foragers, drawn to:

• Sweet foods: sugar, honey, syrups, spilled soft drinks
• Proteins: meats, dairy products
• Grease and oils: cooking fats, butter residue

You may spot a single, wandering odorous house ant scout searching for food or a full-blown ant trail running between a nest and a food source. While a lone scout may seem harmless, it’s mapping out a food source and will quickly bring in hundreds—or thousands—of friends if left unchecked. Ant trails often appear along walls, under sinks and appliances or even beneath carpets, leading directly to food spills, garbage cans or improperly stored items.

How to get rid of sugar ants in your kitchen:

• Eliminate active ants immediately: Use Six Feet Under Plant-Powered Insect Spray, a kill-on-contact cinnamon and clove spray made with essential oil nanotechnology, to remove scouts before they call for reinforcements.
• Disrupt their trails: Sugar ants leave behind pheromone trails to guide others. Wipe down surfaces with Six Feet Under to erase their scent map.
• Remove food sources: Clean up spills, wipe counters, store food in sealed containers and keep pet food covered.

Tip: Want a plant-based prevention approach? Here’s how to repel ants with essential oils.

Use ant powder indoors (when it helps and where to apply it)

• Create a dry barrier with Dust to Dust Plant-Powered Insect Powder for ongoing protection: This biodegradable powder helps create a protective barrier in the places ants travel most. Apply it lightly along baseboards, under sinks and in cracks or crevices where activity is common.
• Re-check after cleaning or moisture: If the area gets wiped, wet or disturbed, inspect and reapply as needed.

Protect your perimeter (stop ants before they get inside)

• Use Barricade outdoors at the source: Barricade is for exterior perimeter and entry points (dilute and apply per label). Treat along the foundation and around doors, windows and utility lines to help reduce re-entry.
• Keep it in its lane: Use on the exterior perimeter only. Avoid skin, pets, fabrics and plants. Follow the label.

Control the colony (for long-term results)

If ants continue to return after cleaning and perimeter treatment, the colony is likely still active.

• Start with a slow-acting bait: An ant bait made with borax and sugar water can help target the colony itself. Place bait near active foraging trails so worker ants can carry it back to the nest. Keep bait out of reach of children and pets.
• Then add Dust to Dust where they travel (not where they feed): Apply Dust to Dust along baseboards and cracks a few feet away from bait placements so ants aren’t deterred before they feed and return to the nest.

Keep them from coming back

• Track their entry points: Follow the trail to find cracks in walls, gaps in windows or baseboard openings. Seal them with caulk to prevent further invasions.
• Be proactive: Even after removing visible ants, keep an eye on problem areas for signs of new activity.

By cutting off their food supply and disrupting their navigation, you can reduce sugar ant activity without relying on harsh chemicals or lingering fumes.

Tips & notes for getting rid of sugar ants

• Expect odorous house ants to return: These tiny invaders can return repeatedly throughout the year, especially after heavy rains, cold snaps or extreme summer heat. Keeping up with preventive measures is key.
• Optional spot use: If you need a dry, targeted barrier in cracks and crevices outdoors where powder can sit undisturbed, Dust to Dust can help. Avoid exposed areas where wind or rain will move it.
• Maintain your Barricade perimeter: Barricade is designed to leave a residual barrier for up to 90 days when used as directed. Heavy rain, sprinklers or frequent moisture can shorten that window, so inspect entry points and reapply as needed.
  
• Know where odorous house ants nest: Their colonies typically house up to 10,000 ants with multiple queens and are often found outdoors beneath soil, pavers, wood piles or other debris. However, they may also establish indoor nests in wall voids or near warmth-emitting sources.

Get rid of carpenter ants in your home

Carpenter ants—like the odorous house ant—are also a type of sugar ant, but unlike their kitchen-invading relatives, they don’t just scavenge for food. They also tunnel into wood, weakening structures over time. These large ants—specifics in the aforementioned chart—prefer damp, decaying wood, making homes with moisture issues especially vulnerable.

Carpenter ants quick plan (start here)

• Assume moisture: If carpenter ants are indoors, look for leaks, damp wood or humidity issues first.
• Knock down active ants: Eliminate visible workers so they stop scouting and signaling.
• Find the nest: Check water-damaged wood, wall voids, attics, crawl spaces and areas near plumbing.
• Treat voids and entry points: Focus on where ants travel and where nests may be hidden. 
• Prevent repeat visits: Fix moisture issues, seal entry points and keep firewood away from the house.

Tip: A quick way to identify carpenter ants is by their distinctly rounded thorax. While most ants have noticeable bumps or ridges on their thorax, carpenter ants have a smooth, curved profile when viewed from the side.

Signs of a carpenter ant infestation include:

• Wood shavings (frass): Fine sawdust-like material near baseboards, windows or wooden furniture that resembles pencil shavings. 
• Rustling sounds: Faint scratching noises inside walls or hollow wood.
• Winged swarmers: Flying reproductive ants emerging indoors, particularly in spring or summer.

How to get rid of carpenter ants (before they cause damage):

• Destroy the colony: Spotting a few carpenter ants indoors usually means a nest is nearby. Use Six Feet Under to eliminate workers and disrupt their activity.
• Locate the nest: Unlike termites, carpenter ants don’t eat wood—they carve tunnels into damp structures. Check for nests in rotting wood, wall voids, attics or crawl spaces. Keep tracking until you find the source.
• Fix moisture issues: Leaky pipes, poor ventilation or damp wood create ideal conditions. Reduce humidity and repair water damage to deter nesting.
• Seal entry points: Gaps around doors, windows and utility lines are common access points. Caulk cracks and install weather stripping to keep them out.
• Store firewood properly: Keep woodpiles elevated and at least 20 feet from the house to prevent ants from moving indoors.

Tips & notes for getting rid of carpenter ants 

• Look for satellite nests: If activity keeps popping up in different areas, you may be dealing with satellite nests. Don’t stop after finding one hotspot. Keep tracking activity until it actually dies down.
• Use neighborhood observations: If you’re dealing with a persistent infestation, speak with your neighbors. They may have noticed where ants are most active, movement patterns, past moisture issues or sawdust-like frass.
• Track ants to their satellite nests: Place a dead, soft-bodied insect near a foraging carpenter ant. Once the ant picks it up to bring back to the nest, follow it to see where activity is leading.
• Physically remove nests when possible: Once a nest is found, it can be removed physically by using a vacuum.

Treatment methods for carpenter ants

• Use Dust to Dust for wall void nests: If carpenter ants are nesting inside wall voids, apply Dust to Dust through small drill holes near entry points to reach hidden colonies. For better coverage, drill holes three to six feet apart along the suspected nest area. After treatment, seal the holes with a dowel, small cork or appropriate sealant to prevent reinfestation.
• Apply a perimeter treatment to prevent reinfestation: A perimeter spray creates a protective barrier around the home, deterring ants from entering. Apply Barricade around the foundation wall, extending 2 feet up and 3 feet out, and treat all potential entry points, including breaks in the foundation, window and door frames, siding edges and chimney flashing.

Micro FAQ: quick answers about ants

Tiny ants in the house: what are they?

“Tiny ants” is often a catch-all name for small indoor invaders like odorous house ants (often called “sugar ants”), pharaoh ants or thief ants. The exact ID matters less than the pattern. Start by cleaning attractants, wiping trails and treating entry points.

Does Lysol kill ants?

It may kill individual ants on contact, but it usually won’t solve the bigger problem. Ants come back if the colony is still active and attractants (food, moisture, entry points) are unchanged. If you use any household cleaner, follow the label, keep the area ventilated and focus on removing what’s drawing ants in, not just the ants you can see.

Does bifenthrin kill ants?

Bifenthrin is an insecticide used in some ant control products. It can be effective against certain ants when used exactly as directed on the label. If you’re treating areas where kids or pets spend time, consider your comfort level and always follow the label. For long-term control, you’ll still need to address the colony and prevent re-entry by sealing gaps and removing attractants.

Does Sevin kill carpenter ants?

“Sevin” is a brand name used across different products and formulations, so the answer depends on the exact label. Some products may list ants or carpenter ants; others may not. If it’s not explicitly on the label, don’t use it for that purpose. Carpenter ants also tend to signal a moisture issue, so fixing damp wood or leaks is often just as important as any treatment.

Why do ants keep coming back even after I spray them?

Because sprays often reduce the ants you see, not the colony you don’t. If scouts keep finding food or water, they’ll keep returning and reinforcing trails. That’s why the most reliable approach combines cleanup, trail disruption, targeted treatment and sealing entry points.

Explore more

• How to get rid of ant trails (step-by-step cleanup, prevention)
• Do different smells attract insects? (what draws pests in, what to do)
• How to repel ants with essential oils (simple plant-based deterrents)
• How to get rid of aphids on indoor plants (signs, treatment, prevention)