The Clothing Moth Trap

Q1. How do I know if I have Clothing Moths?

A: Clothing moths are seldom seen because they avoid light. They prefer dark, undisturbed areas such as closets, basements, and attics. The common identifiers for clothing moths in your home include:
Irregular holes in natural fiber clothing
Silken larvae tubes or patches of webbing on clothing
White eggs that are just visible to the naked eye

Q2. What kind of moth do I have?

A: If you have moths in the house it is vital to identify the type to use the correct treatment. The most common destructive pests include pantry and clothes moths. Here are a few quick identifiers to assist you in determining what kind of moth you have.

Clothing Moth:
  • A moth found in closets, basements, and other undisturbed dark areas
  • Small, maggot-looking larvae in clothes drawers or silken cases or tubes
  • Little holes in clothing or natural fibers like linen, wool, silk, or fur
  • Fine cobwebs on clothing or fabric
Pantry Moth:
  • Moths are often found flying in kitchens and other rooms of the house
  • A moth that is reddish-brown, with a distinctive tan spot on their front wings
  • Larva, webbing or droppings in grain, dried fruits, nuts, cereals, and processed food
Q3. What is the difference between Tineola Bisselliella and Tinea Pellionella
Tineola bisselliella

Known as the common clothes moth, webbing, web-spinning clothes moth, or simply clothing moth.

Tinea pellionella

Known as the case making or case-bearing clothes moth.

Q4. How to identify the clothing moth species in my home?

There are two main species of clothes moths, webbing also referred to as “web spinning” and casemaking also referred to as “case bearing”. They are similar in size and appearance with a few distinct differences.

  • Webbing/Web Spinning Moth:
  • Goldish-tan in color
  • No wing markings
  • Caterpillar case will be woven into the fabric the larvae are eating

Casemaking/Case bearing Moth:

  • Grey and dull in color
  • Dark specks on their wings
  • Caterpillar will drag case with them as they move about.
Q5. How to use Dr. Killigan’s Clothing Moth Traps?

Dr. Killigan’s Clothing Moth Traps use pheromones to attract moths to the trap. The pheromone is already mixed into the glue and ready to use.

Just open the package, remove the protective sheet, then fold and insert the flap located on one end of the trap into the slot on the other end to build the trap into the triangular shape.

Clothing moths are not always great at flying and often will do little more than hop along the ground. For maximum efficiency, hang one trap high on a closet pole and place another one down low near the ground.

Q6. Do pheromone moth traps work?


Our moth traps are very effective at attracting the adult male moths to the airborne compound (pheromone) pre-mixed into the glue. The glue in the traps catches male moths which reduces breeding and stops the life cycle. Thousands of 5 star reviews speak for themselves!

Q7. What do clothing moths eat?
  • Adult moths do not possess a mouth. It is the larvae that consume natural fibers such as:
  • Silk
  • Wool
  • Cashmere
  • Angora
  • Fur
  • Materials that contain keratin
Q8. What is keratin?

Keratin is a fibrous protein that provides structure. Keratin is found in the following:

  • Hair
  • Nails
  • Horn
  • Hoofs
  • Wool
  • Feathers
  • Skin
Q9. What are pheromones? How do they work to catch insects?

Pheromones are communication chemicals (rather than scents) for insects.

An insect releases chemicals compounds into the air and another insects receives the message through sensors on their antennae.

Q10. My traps haven’t caught any clothing moths, what do I do?

Your success is our goal. Here are a few things to consider if you are not catching clothing moths.

  • Discard particularly infested items (If you found the infested clothing rid it from closet)
  • Thoroughly clean the clothes you do keep (dry cleaning, steaming or hot washing clothes)
  • Clean your closet (vacuuming and wiping down with simple solution)
  • Strains (Identification of the moth is critical to know if you are using the correct pheromone trap)
  • 30-day time-frame (It takes time to attract and stop the lifecycle of the moth)
  • Multiple traps (hang one trap high on a closet and another one down low near the ground)
  • Location does not determine species Just because a moth is found in your bedroom does not mean this is a clothing moth. Pantry moths are more common than clothing moths. If the clothing moth traps are not working for you, there is a high likelihood that you are dealing with a different species of moth than these two clothing moths.
Q11. What’s the difference between a pantry moth and a clothing moth?

People often get the two confused but it is important to identify which moth is invading your home to choose the right pheromone solution to restore peace and be moth free.

Clothing Moth:
  • Destroy fabric and other materials
  • Avoid light and likely to be found in dark areas
  • Not frequent fliers. Usually, they crawl or “hop-fly” near the ground.
  • They feed on animal fibers, especially wool, fur, silk, feathers, felt, and leather.
Pantry Moth:
  • Moths are often found flying in kitchens and other rooms of the house
  • Pantry moths often invade the house from purchased dry groceries that are already infested with adults moths or larvae
  • Larvae feed on grain products, grain, dried fruits, nuts, cereals, processed food, and more.
  • Webbing on the food product or packaging or in dark corners of your cupboards is a common indicator of pantry moth problems.


The Pantry Moth Trap

Q1: I have my trap out. The moths fly in and out of it, but don’t get stuck. The trap doesn’t feel sticky. What am I missing?

A: There is a protective layer of wax-like paper designed to keep the trap from sticking to itself in the packaging. Once you remove it, the glue will be exposed and the trap will have its maximum effect. See instructions on the back of the box for more help.

Q2: Will these work in my closet for clothing moths?

A: Probably not. Different moths are attracted to different pheromones. Pantry moth traps work specifically on moths attracted to food. We have received reports from customers that they have had success using our traps in their closets. However, there is no way for us to confirm this, and Dr. Killigan’s Pantry Moth Traps are designed to be used around food.

Q3: I touched the glue on the trap, how do I get it off my skin?

A: First off, the glue is non-toxic and not harmful, but you want to avoid contact with it because it is very sticky. If it gets on your skin, gently rub it with vegetable oil and then wash with soap and water. Repeat if necessary.

Q4: My traps have many moths, but I am still seeing moths flying around. What else can I do?

A: Placing moth traps in your kitchen will stop the mating process by trapping males. In order to eliminate the overall problem (females and juveniles included), it is important to find the contaminated food source. Look inside plastic bags, cereal boxes, and in the corners of the cupboards. Look for small globs of webbing with tiny black dots of feces. Remove them from your house or apartment immediately. Then clean your cupboards and pantry with a mild detergent.

Q5: My traps are out, but they don’t seem to be catching many moths. What should I do?

A: Check FAQ 1.
Check Wikipedia. Verify that the moths you are targeting are Plodia interpunctella. While these traps often catch other varieties of food moths, this is the main problem moth and number one target. If your moths are different, this very well could be the reason for your lack of success. But no matter what type of moth you have, be sure to also try Number 3 below.
Change it up. Give it three or four days, and try something different. If you have had your traps out on top of the cupboard, try putting them inside the cupboard. If they’ve been down low in the pantry, put them up high. Experiment a little and then wait for a few days. Sometimes a little change can yield great rewards. Once you have found the “sweet spot,” leave the trap there to maximize its trapping power.

Q6: How long do these traps last? When should I replace them?

A: The pheromone attractant is effective for three months once they have been removed from the foil wrapper. After three months, they lose potency. Of course, you may need to dispose of them sooner if they are full of moths and there is no more surface area for new moths to stick.

Q7: Does the color choice matter?

A: Nope. The products are exactly the same except for the print-design.

Q8: Where should I place these?

A: Set traps in kitchens, pantries, cupboards, basements, and garages.

Q9: Do these traps attract both male and female moths?

A: No. They attract only male moths.


The Fly Inn


Q1: I just received my product; where do I place it?

A: Choose windows that seem to be high traffic or “popular hangouts” for bugs. There are usually two to four windows in a home that seem to attract bugs more than others. Place your traps on these windows.These traps work best at the bottom edge of the glass. Clean the glass so the trap will stick well. Run your finger along the inside edge of the trap to adhere it more completely to the glass surface. (Obviously be careful not to push your finger too far into the trap, or else you’ll get some glue on you).

Q2: I touched the glue on the trap, how do I get it off my skin?

A: First off, the glue is non-toxic and not harmful, but you want to avoid contact with it because it is very sticky. If it gets on your skin, gently rub it with vegetable oil and then wash with soap and water. Repeat if necessary.

Q3: What kind of flies do these work for?

A: These work for flies and other insects that crawl on windows.

Q4: How long do these traps last?

A: These last until they are full.

Q5: How do I get it off my window?

A: When removing the traps from your window, think slow. If you rip them off too quickly, some of the adhesive may be left behind. To remove them cleanly with no residual left on the window, pull firmly, but take your time. To remove any excess glue, fingernail polish remover or rubbing alcohol should take it off without any problem.

The Insect Buster

Q1: How long should I leave DE Powder out before cleaning it up?

A: For maximum results, We recommend at least 24-48 hours before cleaning.

Q2: Can I clean it with a vacuum?

A: It is not recommended, unless you have a HEPA filter on it; it can ruin your vacuum.

Q3: Does it have to be “food grade?”

A: No. But if you are using it in your kitchen, it is ideal to go with food grade DE. Insect grade DE should not be used around food.

Q4: Can I use “swimming pool” DE powder?

A: No. This is unsafe and ineffective; do not use this inside or around food.

Q5: How does DE powder work?

A: DE dehydrates insects rather than kills them with insecticidal toxins. That said, it takes time for the dehydration process to take place. DE is not a “dead, on contact” solution, but it is very effective. Use breathing protection to protect your lungs from irritation.

Q6: How long does it take to work?

A: It starts to work immediately, but since it works by dehydrating insects, it usually takes about 48 hours to fully take effect.

Q7: The DE powder is clumping, what do I do?

A: Diatomaceous Earth is a very fine powder and clumps very easily. This can result in small inconsistencies in flow with most powder applicators on the market. To avoid this, place a marble in the bulb when filling, and shake periodically to break up any small clumps. A coin also works.

Q8: What is the additional brass rod for?

A: It’s an “extension rod”. Use it to get into those hard-to-reach places. Just unscrew the curved brass tip from the aluminum lid and thread the extension rod in its place. Now add the curved top to the nut-connector at the end of the extension rod and viola!

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